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When compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary honour.